If your garage floor is cracked, sinking or holding water, we pour a new slab on packed ground that drains and wears well.
Garage floor concrete in Oxford, MS is a new slab poured over packed soil or gravel, sloped so water runs out the door, and cured carefully so it stands up to cars, tools and years of use.
Most garage floor calls start with a crack running across the slab, a corner that's dropped or water sitting by the wall after a storm. I spent years patching slabs like that for a property management company, and nearly every one failed because of the ground under it, not the concrete on top. So a new floor starts with the dirt, the slope and what will sit on it.
The price moves with the size of the garage, how thick the slab needs to be, whether an old floor has to be broken out and hauled off, and how much soft ground we dig out and replace. The schedule turns on the permit check, the weather on pour day and the curing wait before you use it. Your written estimate spells out what's in the price and what isn't.
A few calls made before the pour decide how the floor holds up. These are the ones I walk through with garage owners, and why each one matters.
A slab should be as thick as the job asks. One concrete guide says a garage floor for cars and pickups goes thicker on very soft ground and under concentrated loads like a car lift, and it ties that extra thickness to the lift, not to the weight of the car. So a lift changes the slab more than a heavy truck does.
Rebar and wire mesh are steel set inside the slab, and they don't stop concrete from cracking. Placed in the right spot, they keep cracks narrower so the slab holds together. I'd rather you hear that straight now, because a garage floor that never cracks isn't something concrete promises.
Hot weather trouble mostly shows up in summer, but heat isn't the whole story. A concrete industry guide says a windy, sunny day needs tighter precautions than a calm, humid one at the same temperature, because a top that dries too fast can turn weak and dusty later. We plan the pour around wind and sun, not just the thermometer.
Curing is the wait while fresh concrete holds its water and gains strength, and it's where a lot of floors get shortchanged. One industry guide says it should start as soon as possible, with a sprayed curing compound or damp burlap kept wet for at least three days. Ask us which one we'll use on yours.
From the first call to the last walk-through, here's who does what, so you know what's coming before anybody breaks ground in your garage.
Call (662) 550-8149 or use the form, and tell us the garage size, any lift or coating plans and whether you're in the city or the county. We'll set a time for me to come out.
I come out myself, measure, check the ground, the slope and how a truck gets in, and talk through what you'll park there. Then I send a written estimate that says what the price covers and what it doesn't.
We check with the permit office for your address and handle any permit and inspections the job needs. Then we dig out the soft ground, pack the base, set the forms and pour, with me on site running the crew.
When the floor is done, we walk it together so you can see the slope, the joints and the surface. I'll tell you how we're curing it and when it's ready for your cars.
Tell us early if you're planning a car lift or a coated floor, because either one changes how we plan the slab. A lift asks more of the concrete under it, and a coating needs a slab that's ready for it. Finding that out after the pour means living with it or tearing it out.
Before anything gets poured, we take out the topsoil and soft spots, then pack the subgrade, which is the ground the slab sits on. We set the slope so water runs out of the garage instead of pooling by the wall. We cut control joints on time, shallow saw lines that give the concrete a place to crack where we chose.
Here's the trade-off. The base is buried on day one and nobody sees it, so it's the first thing people want to cut from the budget. I won't, because a nice surface on loose dirt cracks and sinks just like the floor you're replacing. If money's tight, I'd rather keep the finish plain and the ground right.
If the garage sits into a slope, the drive side may need more than a slab, and we build concrete retaining walls to hold the grade. If you want the approach or a finished garage space to look like more than plain gray, we also do decorative concrete finishes.
A broom finish drags light grooves across the surface so tires and shoes grip when it's wet. A smooth troweled floor is easier to sweep and mop, but it gets slick with water on it.
Bare concrete is the simplest floor to keep up. Coatings look clean, but water vapor moving up through a slab can make moisture-sensitive coatings and adhesives fail and discolor, so we plan the slab for one from the start.
We reply within one business day, and most times I'm the one who calls. I come out, measure and look over the ground, then send a written estimate with no pressure to book. Mention your garage size, any car lift and whether you're in the city or the county.
(662) 550-8149Who issues the permit depends on where you live. Inside Oxford, the city's Building division issues residential permits and does the inspections, and it enforces the erosion control rules that matter when we open up the ground. Out in the county, Lafayette County requires a building permit for homes in subdivisions, and the application and plans go to its Development Services Department in person or by email.
Whether a garage floor by itself needs a permit isn't something I'll guess at. We check with the office that covers your address before work starts, and when a job needs one, we handle the paperwork and line up the inspections. One soil data site calls Lafayette County's expansive soil risk real but uneven, worst on lots with poor drainage, cut-and-fill grading or old plumbing leaks, which is why we dig out soft spots and settle drainage first.
We're based in Oxford and work across Lafayette County and the cities around it, including Batesville, Holly Springs and Pontotoc. On a lot of garage jobs we find an old slab poured on raked dirt with nowhere for the water to go, and we fix it the same way wherever the house sits.
I come out myself to look at your garage and write the estimate, and I'm on site running the work with our crew. Before I started this business in 2023, I spent years doing upkeep for a property management company, patching cracked and sunken slabs across a lot of rentals. That's where I learned what makes concrete fail and what makes it last.
Mississippi requires residential contractors to be licensed by the Mississippi State Board of Contractors. We're licensed and fully insured. Our work is backed by our satisfaction guarantee. Homeowners call us, and so do landlords and property managers who want one person handling the job and a straight answer about it.
The best time to call is before you've picked a finish, because the ground and the slab plan come first. Call (662) 550-8149 or send us the form, and I'll set a time to come walk your garage with you.
If plain gray isn't what you want on the approach or a finished garage space, a colored or patterned surface gives the concrete a cleaner look.
When the garage sits into a hill or the yard drops off beside the drive, a wall holds the soil back so it stops washing onto the slab.
Our crew pours garage floors in Oxford and the cities around it, with the same ground prep on every job. Pick your city to see what we run into on jobs there.
Across the US, professional garage floor installation usually runs about $4 to $8 per square foot, materials and labor included. That's the market's range, not our price. Your number depends on the garage size, slab thickness, how much soft ground comes out and whether an old floor has to go first, and my written estimate puts it on paper.
The city's Building division handles permits and inspections inside Oxford, and the county's Development Services Department takes building permit applications for homes in county subdivisions. We check with whichever office covers your address before work starts and handle any permit your job needs, as covered in the Oxford section above.
It can still get hairline cracks, because all concrete can, but a floor on a packed base with joints cut on time cracks along lines we chose instead of across the middle. The old floors I patched mostly failed from soft ground underneath, which is why prep gets the most time on our jobs.
One ready-mix supplier says to wait until the concrete has cured at least 28 days after the pour. The same supplier says sealers wear down with traffic and weather, so plan to reseal regularly rather than once. We can go over timing for your floor at the final walk-through.
It depends on how thick the slab is, and a concrete industry group ties the maximum joint spacing to slab thickness with an upper limit. It's a fair question to ask any contractor. I'll show you where each joint goes before we pour.
You'll lose the garage for the tear-out, the pour and the cure, and how long each takes turns on how much old concrete and soft ground comes out, the weather on pour day and the curing wait. I'll lay out the schedule when we go over the estimate, so you can plan where the cars go.
Clear everything off the floor, including shelves and cabinets against the walls if you can move them. Park somewhere else from the day we start until the concrete is ready, and make sure a truck can reach the garage door. If anything's hard to move, tell me at the estimate.
Call (662) 550-8149 or send the form now, because the permit check happens before work starts and the pour waits for a day with the right weather.
