Old walk cracked, tipped up by roots or holding puddles? We build a new concrete walk on packed ground that drains and stays flat.
Concrete sidewalk building in Oxford, MS means we dig out and prepare the ground, then pour and finish a new concrete walk in place, usually over a packed gravel base, so you get a path to your door that drains and stays even underfoot.
Most calls start with a walk that's already failing. A slab tipped up by a tree root, a section that sank by the steps, a low spot that holds water after every rain. I patched a lot of those doing property upkeep, and nearly every one failed because of the ground underneath, not the concrete. That's why where the walk runs and what it sits on matter more to me than a stronger mix.
The price moves with the walk's length and width, how much old concrete we break out and haul off, how deep we dig to reach firm ground, and each spot where a car crosses it. The schedule turns on that prep and on the wait while the concrete cures before anyone uses it. Your written estimate gives you the figure for your own walk.
Three things decide whether a new walk stays flat, and none of them show once the concrete is down. These are what I look at first on every walk.
A walk should shed water off to the side and away from your house. If it's set too low or tilted the wrong way, water sits on it or runs toward your foundation. I check where the yard drains before we set a single form, so the new walk works with it.
The subgrade is the dirt the whole walk rests on. We strip the topsoil, roots and anything soft, then pack the ground and the gravel base until it's firm. Raking loose dirt level looks the same on pour day, but it settles later and takes the walk down with it.
Control joints are the grooves across a walk that give it a planned place to crack as it shrinks. They only work if they're tooled or sawn early, before the concrete cracks on its own. Any contractor you talk to should be able to tell you how and when they'll cut them.
Here's how a sidewalk job runs with us, from your first call to the last look at the finished walk.
Call (662) 550-8149 or send the form with a few lines about the walk you want. Most times I'm the one who calls you back, and we set a time for me to come see the route.
I come out, walk the route with you, measure it and look over the ground and the access for our equipment. Then you get a written estimate showing what the price covers and what it doesn't.
Once you say go, we sort out any permit and inspections, dig out and pack the ground, set the forms and pour. We finish the surface, cut the joints and leave it to cure.
When the forms come off, I walk the finished sidewalk with you again. I'll tell you when it's ready for feet and when it's ready for cars, so nobody marks it up early.
Before I price a walk, I want to know every spot where a car will cross it, whether that's the drive, a side yard where a truck pulls through or the curb by the street. Those spots get a thicker build and ground packed to carry the weight, so the walk stays even where it meets the drive. If the walk ties into the garage, we can plan your garage floor concrete at the same time.
When a budget gets tight, the base is the first thing people want to cut, because nobody sees it on pour day. I'd cut almost anything else first, since the base keeps the walk flat. We give the top a broom finish, a light texture dragged across the wet concrete, so it's not slick on rainy days. If you want color or a pattern, our decorative concrete work can add it and still leave texture underfoot.
If roots or a soggy low spot broke the old walk, pouring new concrete in the same line invites the same trouble. Shifting the route a few feet around a tree or up out of the wet is usually worth it.
A wider walk takes more concrete and more digging, so it costs more. It also lets two people walk side by side or roll a bin past someone, which matters most on the main path to your front door.
Send the form and we'll reply within one business day to set a time for your free on-site estimate. You get the price in writing, with no obligation and no pressure to book.
(662) 550-8149In Oxford, the city's Building division reviews residential permit applications and issues permits, and the Engineering office approves permits for work in the right-of-way, the public land along the street. I won't guess whether your walk needs one. We check with the permit office for your address, city or county, before work starts, and if a permit is needed we do the paperwork and line up the inspections.
One soil analysis of Lafayette County rates the risk from expansive soil, clay that swells when wet and shrinks as it dries, as real but uneven, with most trouble on lots that drain poorly or were leveled by cutting and filling. Around Oxford, and out in Batesville and Holly Springs, the broken walks we replace usually sit on graded lots or near big trees, so that's where the prep goes deepest.
I spent years doing upkeep for a property management company, patching walks, steps and slabs across a lot of rentals. That's where I learned what makes concrete fail. I started Oxford Concrete Company in 2023 to build it right the first time instead. The person who looks at your walk and writes the estimate is me, and I'm on site running the work with our crew.
We're licensed and fully insured. Every job is backed by our satisfaction guarantee. Homeowners call us, and so do landlords and property managers who want one person to handle the job and give a straight answer. To get started on your walk, call (662) 550-8149 or send us the form.
If your walk leads to the garage and the floor inside is cracked or sinking, it can make sense to plan the new floor alongside the walk.
If you want the front walk to match a patio or stand apart from the driveway, color and pattern can give it a look plain gray won't.
We're based in Oxford and build walks across Lafayette County and the cities around it, including Batesville, Holly Springs and Pontotoc. If your city isn't listed below, call and ask.
Across the US, an installed concrete sidewalk usually costs about $11 to $14 per square foot, based on 2026 national averages rather than Oxford prices. Your own price comes down to the walk's size and the ground it sits on, and the on-site estimate puts it in writing.
One contractor's guide says a new walk is ready for foot traffic in about 3 days, but cars should stay off it for a week. Concrete keeps curing, slowly hardening as it holds its moisture, and reaches full strength in about 28 days. Plan where you'll park that first week if a car crosses the walk.
If the walk has sunk, tipped or keeps holding water, replacing it is usually the better spend, because a patch doesn't fix the ground underneath. A single thin crack on a walk that's still flat can often wait. I'll tell you which one you're looking at when I come out.
Clear plants, pavers and anything else along the route, and point out sprinkler lines or anything buried that you know about. Keep a path open from the street for our equipment, and move cars out of the way on pour day.
Yes, Mississippi requires residential contractors to be licensed by the Mississippi State Board of Contractors. The board's Residential Remodeler category covers residential improvement projects over $10,000. Ask any contractor you're considering about their state license before you sign.
Call (662) 550-8149 or send the form with the planned route, a rough length and any spots where cars cross, so I can come out knowing what to look at.
