Cracked, uneven old floor, or a new room that needs one? We prep the ground right and pour a slab that fits its use.
Concrete floor installation in Oxford means we dig out and pack the ground, set forms and any steel, then pour and trowel a floor planned for how you'll use it, bare or under flooring.
Most calls start with an old slab that's cracked, sunk or chipping, or with a new addition, shop or outbuilding that needs a floor. Either way, a floor is only as good as what it sits on and how it's finished. So before anything else, I want to know what the room is for, what's going on top of the floor and what the ground looks like now.
The price moves with the size of the floor, how much digging and packing the ground needs, whether old concrete has to come out first, how close the truck can get and the finish you want. The schedule turns on getting the ground ready, any permit and inspections, and the wait while the concrete cures. The written estimate spells out what's in the price and what isn't.
Most of the broken floors I've patched failed in one of a few predictable ways. These are the ones we plan around, before the truck shows up and on pour day.
The ground, the forms, the vapor barrier and any rebar, which is the steel set inside the slab to keep cracks from pulling apart, all have to be done before the concrete arrives. Once it's on site it starts to set, and holding it up while someone fixes a form can weaken the finished floor.
Concrete poured in the heat of midday can dry too fast on top, and that shows up later as a weak, dusty surface that wears and chips. We plan the pour and the finishing so the crew isn't racing the heat, because a rushed top is the part you look at every day.
Control joints are lines we cut into the slab on purpose, so when the concrete shrinks and cracks, the crack runs along the line instead of across the room. Cut late or skipped, they do nothing, and cracks show up in places nobody chose. We cut them while the timing still works.
From the first call to the last walk-through, here's who does what. I'm the one you'll see at the estimate and on the job with our crew.
Give us the address, the size of the room if you know it and whether the floor stays bare or goes under flooring, so we come out ready to talk about the right finish.
I come out, measure, look over the ground and how the truck gets in, and talk through the finish and joints with you. Then I send a written estimate that spells out what's in the price and what isn't.
We sort out any permit and inspections first. Then our crew digs out and packs the ground, sets the forms, barrier and steel, pours the concrete and finishes the floor.
When it's done, I walk the floor with you again, show you where the joints run and go over how to treat it while it cures, because a floor put to use too soon can mark or crack.
The first thing I ask is whether the floor stays bare or goes under flooring, because that changes the job. A bare floor gets more finishing passes since you'll see it and walk on it. A covered floor needs less polish, but we're extra careful with the vapor barrier, the plastic sheet under the slab that keeps ground moisture from coming up, because tears in it cause trouble later.
Before the pour, I go over the joint layout with you on site. We decide together where the cut lines run, so they line up with walls, doorways or where cabinets will sit instead of crossing the middle of a room you care about. It's a short talk, and it saves a lot of second-guessing once the concrete is down.
When a budget gets tight, people usually want to cut the prep, because nobody sees the base on pour day. I go the other way. The subgrade is the dirt and packed stone the slab sits on, and a base that's only raked level settles with the ground and takes the floor with it. I'd rather spend on digging out and packing than on a fancier finish.
A floor job often comes with work at its edges. If the room has an outside door with a step down to the yard, we can pour new concrete steps at the same time. If it opens onto the pool, we can plan a concrete pool deck along with it so the heights match and water runs away from the door.
Extra passes with a steel trowel give a smooth, clean floor that's easy to sweep and looks finished on its own. The catch is that it gets slippery when wet, so I steer people away from it in rooms that see water.
If tile, wood or carpet is going over the slab, it doesn't need that glassy smoothness, just a flat, sound surface. The money and attention go into the base and the barrier instead, where they do more good.
We reply within one business day, and most times I'm the one who calls you back. I set a time, come out, walk the job with you and send a written estimate. It's free, and there's no pressure to book.
(662) 550-8149Inside the city, Oxford's Building division issues permits and inspects new construction, remodels and alterations. Out in the county, Lafayette County requires building permits for residential structures in subdivisions. Its building department issues those permits and inspects the work, and applications go with building plans to the county's Development Services office, in person or by email.
Neither office spells out how those rules apply to a floor slab by itself, so I don't guess. We check with the permit office that covers your address before work starts. When the job needs a permit, we handle the paperwork and line up the inspections so you're not chasing them.
We're based in Oxford and work across Lafayette County and the cities around it, including Batesville, Holly Springs and Pontotoc. Around here we pour a lot of floors for additions, shops and outbuildings, and we tear out plenty of old slabs that cracked and sank because the ground under them was never dug out and packed.
Before I started Oxford Concrete Company in 2023, I spent years doing upkeep for a property management company, patching walks, steps, drives and slabs across a lot of rentals. Most of the cracked and sunken concrete I fixed failed because of what was underneath, not the concrete on top. That's why I'd rather spend the time on prep than see your floor need patching down the road.
I come out myself to look at the job and write the estimate, and I'm on site running the work with our crew. So the person who promised you a packed base and a joint layout is the one standing there when it goes in. We're licensed and fully insured.
Our work is backed by our satisfaction guarantee. If you're planning a floor, call (662) 550-8149 or send us the form and I'll come take a look. Bring your flooring plans or a rough sketch of the room if you have one, and we'll start from there.
If your new room opens onto the pool, a deck poured with matching heights and slope keeps water heading away from the door and off the floor inside.
A new floor often changes the height at an outside door, and solid steps built to match make the step up or down safe and even.
Each city below has its own page about how we work there. They're not the only places we go, so call if yours isn't listed.
Your price comes from an on-site visit, because the ground under the floor decides more of the cost than the concrete does. A spot that needs deep digging, fill or an old slab torn out costs more than ready, level ground, and a bare troweled finish takes more labor than one going under flooring.
Probably a little, because no one can keep concrete from cracking entirely, but well-planned joints control where cracks go and keep them small. That's the reason for the joint talk before the pour. Wire mesh won't stop cracking either, though it tends to keep cracks and joints from opening up, so it's worth asking about when you read an estimate.
It can, as long as the vapor barrier under it stays whole. One barrier maker says even small holes in it can sharply raise the moisture coming up through the floor, which can lead to flooring failures or hold up putting the flooring down. So on a covered floor we protect the barrier while the crew walks on it, sets steel and pours.
We keep it from drying out too fast, because holding moisture in new concrete lowers the chance of cracks and helps the floor last. Curing is that wait between the pour and putting the floor to use. Ask at the estimate how we'll keep your floor moist after the pour, and I'll walk you through it.
Mostly decide what goes on top, because a bare floor and a covered one get finished differently. Clear the area, keep a path open for the truck and our crew, and tell us about any plumbing or wiring that has to go in under the slab before we pour.
The Mississippi State Board of Contractors licenses contractors here, and the state requires residential and commercial contractors to be licensed by it. Ask anyone you're thinking of hiring about their license before you sign anything, so you know who's responsible for the work.
Landlords and property managers can call (662) 550-8149 or send the form with the address, because one person handles the floor from the first look to the final walk.
